profile

Kevin Witter

Ballast, in Buff Bay


I drove past this building for years.

Buff Bay is a place you go through. The road bends by the gas station, the church sits back off it behind a mango tree, and unless something makes you stop, you don't.

Then one morning I was up early enough that the light was still coming in low across the grass, and the whole thing looked like it had been lit for me—old, weathered Graves with vines grown right over them. Stained glass windows catching the low light. A castellated tower that belongs in a different country entirely.

Which, it turns out, is exactly the point.

This Church Crossed the Atlantic as Dead Weight

St George's Anglican, Buff Bay. The oldest building in the town.

The short history

There was a church here in 1750, built of wood.

In 1813 an earthquake did sunstanntial damage to the building that wood was retired in favour of something stronger. In 1814 it was rebuilt in cut stone — the building I photographed, tower and all. The entrance runs through a raised panelled door that forms the base of the clock tower, and the stained glass panels are original to that design.

It's called St George's because it was the parish church of the parish of St George. That parish doesn't exist anymore. In 1867 the Governor, Sir John Peter Grant, cut Jamaica's parishes from twenty-two down to fourteen, and St George was folded into Portland.

So the building is named after an administrative unit that was abolished a hundred and sixty years ago, and nobody has ever seen a reason to change it. I like that more than words can explain.

Where the stone came from

Those walls came from England. The stone crossed the Atlantic as ballast.

If you are unfamiliar withiliar with the term: a ship sailing without cargo rides too high in the water. It becomes unstable; the hull sits wrong on the water; it handles badly in weather. So an empty ship loads weight it has no use for — stone, brick, rubble — purely to sit lower and stay upright.

Ships came to Jamaica to fill their holds. Sugar, later bananas. On the way out from England they were carrying very little cargo, so they came weighted with stone. And when they arrived, that stone was dead weight to be dumped before the real cargo went in.

Some frugal official in Buff Bay looked at a pile of discarded ballast and said, "Let's build a church"

Why I keep coming back to this

Every heritage frame I've made this year has turned out to be about something arriving or escaping.

The fort at Titchfield was built to point guns at people. Jerk came down off the mountains with Maroon descendants after the treaties. And this one is a building made of the stone that ships carried when they had nothing better to carry — the physical residue of a trade route, stacked into walls and left standing for two hundred and eleven years.

You cannot photograph a trade route. You can photograph what it left behind.

And then the sky was flat

Which brings me to the edit, because the morning gave me a completely blank sky.

No cloud, no texture, nothing. A clean gradient of pale nothing sitting on top of a building I'd just decided was the most interesting thing in the parish.

Here's what I did.

Mask the sky. Then intersect it with a linear gradient.

This is the bit worth stealing. Lightroom will select the sky for you, and if you just darken that selection, you get a heavier sky — but an evenly heavier one, which still reads flat. It's the same nothing, one stop down.

So I take the sky mask and intersect it with a linear gradient running down from the top of the frame. The intersection means only the overlap gets affected: the sky darkens hardest at the very top and fades to nothing as it comes down toward the roofline.

That does two things. It manufactures the tonal falloff a real sky would have. And because the mask is still a sky mask, none of the darkening touches the tower — so I get depth above the building without flattening the building itself. A plain gradient would have dragged the top of that tower down with it.

Then the edges

This is standard practice for me on almost everything, and it's the most useful habit I've built.

Around the outside of the frame I darken slightly, drop contrast slightly, and reduce sharpness slightly.

Not a vignette in the crude sense — I'm not putting a dark ring on the picture. I'm imitating what a lens does anyway, and what your eye does anyway: the centre is where the detail and the contrast live, and everything toward the border gives up a little of both. Do it gently so the eyes notice it. They just stay where you put them.

That's the whole trick. A flat sky needs weight, and the edges need to stop competing.

Ballast, more or less.

One Frame

A Location Note

St George's Anglican, Buff Bay — early.

Orientation. Shoot it early and you get the sun coming through from behind the building, which is what makes the backlit frames work — light through the roofline, rim on the graves, the stained glass lit from inside the frame rather than flat on. Later in the day it goes flat and grey and the stonework stops reading.

Get low. The grass and leaf litter in front of the church is the best foreground in the yard. Down at knee height the graves and the vines stack properly against the tower, and you lose the road.

The detail everybody misses is the stained glass seen from outside at the right angle — the panels go green and gold when there's light behind them, and that's a frame on its own without the building in it.

Respect. It's a working church with an active graveyard. If anything is happening, come back another morning.

And the sky. Buff Bay skies are often exactly what I got — clean, blue, empty. If you want clouds, the December to January fronts are your window. Otherwise assume you'll be building the sky in post, and expose for the stone; that's the real star of this story.

Reply with a frame where you had to rescue a flat sky. Tell me what you did — I'm collecting approaches, and I'll share the good ones.

There are nine of us reading this. If one person came to mind while you were reading, forward it to them. At this size, that isn't a formality — it's the entire growth strategy, and I notice every single one

Instagram — the frames that don't make the newsletter

YouTube — the longer version, with the mistakes left in

The Photon v1 base prep — my full RAW starting point, free, no email gate.

First Photons — Jamaica. See you at first light.

Port Antonio -Jamaica
​Unsubscribe · Preferences​

Kevin Witter

First Photon is a weekly letter from Jamaica — exploring, preserving, and sharing the soul of the island through photography. Every Tuesday at first light: field technique from real shoots (First Light), location guides written from inside the country (Island Frame), dispatches from the Old Jamaica archive (Field Notes), my Lightroom process on actual frames (In The Edit), and the honest numbers behind building this into a career (The Journey).Five minutes to read. Free forever. Whether you shoot landscapes, you're planning a Jamaica trip, or you carry this island with you — this is written for you.

Share this page