First Photon is a weekly letter from Jamaica — exploring, preserving, and sharing the soul of the island through photography. Every Tuesday at first light: field technique from real shoots (First Light), location guides written from inside the country (Island Frame), dispatches from the Old Jamaica archive (Field Notes), my Lightroom process on actual frames (In The Edit), and the honest numbers behind building this into a career (The Journey).Five minutes to read. Free forever. Whether you shoot landscapes, you're planning a Jamaica trip, or you carry this island with you — this is written for you.
What sits on top of the tallest waterfall in Jamaica.
Published about 1 month ago • 4 min read
One of the many pools above Nonsuch falls- Portland
Above the waterfall
Most people who journey to Nonsuch never see the most incredible features of the waterway.
Fueled by the spectacle of the “tallest falls in Jamaica,” most visitors take the invigorating 45-minute hike — 45 minutes each way. The falls are amazing, no doubt. But I had already done that hike, and this time I wanted to explore the mysterious pools I’d noticed on my first visit.
The late evening light I had anticipated was almost non-existent, appearing only sporadically through brief breaks in the overcast sky.
Unfazed, I stumbled, climbed, groped and occasionally jumped my way through the staircase of tiny falls. I eventually found a few compelling frames, set my tripod, and waited for the dappled light I had so wished for to appear. 37 frames later I left relatively satisfied with my captures and eager to edit.
What’s near you that everybody drives past on the way to the famous thing? Hit reply and tell me — I read every one.
A note on where this is going
I made a hard pivot last week.
In addition to creating beautiful photographs, I am on a mission to explore and preserve the old and wild places of Jamaica through photography and filmmaking.
The art is the passion. The heritage is the purpose.
More on this as it takes shape. For now, it just means you’ll see me going further off the road than I used to.
Island Frame - the top of Nonsuch falls.
The section above the falls is defined by a network of shallow-ish aqua pools and mini waterfalls. It’s a photographer’s gold mine and a little tricky to traverse.
But first, the logistics.
Getting to Nonsuch is easy enough — a winding stretch of charming back roads, mostly uphill, and as you climb you’re bolstered by interchanging views of the coast and the mountains.
Entry was JMD $2,000 to the top of the falls and JMD $3,500 to hike to the bottom.
Bring separate non-slip shoes suitable for hiking and a change of socks. You’re going to need them almost as much as you’ll need mosquito repellent — the natural pools and waterways are a vibrant breeding ground.
How the gorge was made
Portland is well reputed for its abundant rainfall. This is not a recent fact. It has been this way for tens of thousands of years, long before the first Amerindians ever set foot on Xaymaca. That continuous supply of water has sculpted an intricate network of streams, ravines, waterfalls, caves and narrow gorges throughout the parish.
The gorge above Nonsuch Falls was formed — is being formed — from what is known as a confined mountain channel. Over many millennia of flood seasons, the runoff was confined between two resistant rock formations, and the concentrated force of the water rushing downhill slowly carved its way through the rock face.
The result is the characteristic deep plunge pools, polished bedrock, rounded boulders, chutes (think natural waterslide) and smooth potholes.
Each rainy season, rocks collide. Pebbles become trapped in the potholes and act as natural drills, powered by turbulent flood waters. Sand acts as sandpaper and smooths the formations.
An intricate and mysterious tapestry of events carved over thousands of years — and they make beautiful photographs.
Shooting it
Shooting at first light makes less sense here. In the gorge there is no real sunrise, and the air is often misty with water vapour and reflected rays of dappled light. The gentle gurgle of flowing water serves as a constant undertone to the sounds of island wildlife — harmless frogs, small lizards, crickets.
This is a different mood than first light. It’s misty and mysterious. Use this.
Find a strong foreground anchor and build your composition around it. There are many to choose from, whether it’s an ancient boulder rounded by time or a smooth rock face shaped by flowing water. Add two to three supporting layers.
Then lock in and wait.
The frame may look good, but it’s not worth pressing the shutter unless the light is performing. (I am still learning the discipline of this.) Wait for the moment a cloud breaks and the light hits just right to bring life to the frame.
It’s all about the light.
shot on tripod at f11. 1/10 shutter for that dreamy water.
The edit was natural because I had planned for it. Most of the work was returning a little color to the water and vegetation.I try to be restrained with my colors because Jamaica; Portland in particular is very vibrant and saturated straight out of camera.
Location Notes
Where: Gorge above Nonsuch Falls.
When:mid to late afternoon between 3:00 and 6:00 pmts maximize directionality of light.
What to look for: Shallow pools, small boulders, infesting geological formations that layer nicely.
Difficulty: Moderate but prepare to get your feet wet and to do a little climbing over obstacles.
Why this place matters
Every gorge, abandoned estate, forgotten trail, and river crossing tells a chapter of Jamaica’s story. Some were shaped by water. Others by sugar, migration, earthquakes, or hurricanes. Photographing them isn’t only about making beautiful images. It’s one way of preserving places that are constantly changing.
One thing.
Every photograph has two stories: the one in front of the lens, and the one the photographer almost saw.
If you’d like another set of experienced eyes on your work, I’m opening three Frame Sessions this month. We’ll slow down, examine your images together, and figure out what’s holding them back, whether that’s planning, composition, light, or editing.
They’re at founding-client rates while I build out testimonials, and I’d rather work with people who are genuinely trying to get better. I want to move the needle significantly for you.
Landscape & Documentary photographer · Port Antonio, Jamaica
First Photon is a weekly letter from Jamaica — exploring, preserving, and sharing the soul of the island through photography. Every Tuesday at first light: field technique from real shoots (First Light), location guides written from inside the country (Island Frame), dispatches from the Old Jamaica archive (Field Notes), my Lightroom process on actual frames (In The Edit), and the honest numbers behind building this into a career (The Journey).Five minutes to read. Free forever. Whether you shoot landscapes, you're planning a Jamaica trip, or you carry this island with you — this is written for you.
